Kindness Leads the Way

by Nicolle Goldman | Roseville, CA

Leaving the Negreira albergue on the Camino Finisterre, I thank the hospitalera. I’m halfway out the door, when I toss over my shoulder, “Just stay on this road, right?”

She shakes her head. “You must go back to the Camino, then turn left.”

“Go BACK to the Camino? I thought I was on it.”

Retracing yesterday’s last steps, I search for an arrow. Surrounded by tall grass and nettles, shrouded by low-hanging branches, I catch a glimpse of yellow and blue.

The turn leads to a country lane, then a natural path where moss softens the tread of my boots, and eucalyptus wraps me in its scent. Every shade of green surrounds me. Surely, there are fairies here, or their Spanish cousins.

Too soon, I’m on the shoulder of a two-lane highway. I hear the swish of car wheels on wet asphalt as a car approaches, then pulls over. The passenger door flings open and a pilgrim steps out, thanking the driver profusely. I’m surprised to recognize the Korean man who had stayed at the same albergue last night.

He’s happy. Very happy. I have never seen a pilgrim so happy. 

Overcome with emotion, he hugs me awkwardly and tells me he left before dawn. After hours of walking with no one in sight, the driver pulled up to him and said something in Spanish, which he couldn’t understand. He kept his head down and walked on, fearful he was about to be kidnapped or robbed. 

The driver grew more insistent. The Korean guy grew more resistant. Eventually, the irresistible force moved the immovable object. The pilgrim threw his trust into the back seat along with his backpack and got in the car.

After a long ride, he spotted my bright blue backpack. Only then did he realize he had strayed from the Way and the local man had brought him back. 

As we walk, my new friend’s happiness fades into embarrassment at how hard he’d made it for the local man to help him. 

“Where arrow?” he asks me.

I tell him about the marker we passed yesterday on the way to the albergue. If I hadn’t paused to thank the hospitalera, I would have missed the turn like he had. She had helped me with directions; a stranger had helped him with a ride. At both turns, kindness led the way.