Camino Route Overview: Camino Primitivo

Are you considering the Camino Primitivo? This route overview for the Primitivo will give you some information on where it starts (and ends), routing options, distances, key towns, when to go and some tips on how to get there.

Camino Primitivo overview map feature

About the Camino Primitivo

In Spanish, “primitivo” doesn’t mean “primitive”, but rather it means “original”, as in the original Camino. In 813 AD, Bishop Flavia told Alfonso II, the King of Asturias, about the discovery of the tomb of Saint James. Curious, he decided to travel to what is now Santiago de Compostela to see for himself, making the first pilgrimage to Santiago.

Alfonso II subsequently paid for a temple to be built to safeguard the tomb, which then began to attract more pilgrims.

The Primitivo represents only about 5% of pilgrims who clock in at the Pilgrim office in Santiago. It has a quiet contemplative vibe and it’s an increasingly popular route, particularly for repeat pilgrims.

Interesting Things to See on the Primitivo

The Oviedo cathedral and the nearby Naranco churches are listed with UNESCO for their significant historic heritage. Oviedo also has a small, but well-curated regional art museum. Lugo’s intact Roman walls also make the UNESCO list, and you can circumnavigate the city on top of the wall. The city also houses the fascinating Centro Cultural O Vello Carcere, which is a former prison museum which has been converted into an art space.

hospitales view primitivo route guttery
Views for days on the Hospitales routing. Photo courtesy of Carol Guttery.

Popular Starting Points on the Camino Primitivo

The official route goes from Oviedo to Santiago, a distance of 316 kilometers. It joins the popular Camino Francés in Melide. Most people walking the Primitivo choose this routing.

However, some pilgrims who start on the Camino del Norte in Irún or San Sebastián veer off the Norte at Villaviciosa and head south to Oviedo.

Some pilgrims want to earn their Compostela by doing a shorter 100-kilometer route, but don’t want to start in crowded Sarria. At 101 kilometers, starting in Lugo can fit that bill.

There is also a route that takes the Camino San Salvador from Leon, north to Oviedo, joining the Primitivo there. This adds 120 kilometers to the trek.

How to Get Onto the Primitivo

However you do it, it’s a haul to get to Oviedo from North America. The most convenient international gateways are either Madrid or Barcelona.

There is an airport in Asturias with direct flights from Madrid, Barcelona and Lisbon on the Iberian Peninsula. But there are also flights from other European cities such as Dublin, London, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Munich and others. From the airport, it’s a 40-minute bus ride to Oviedo.

There is also a major train station in central Oviedo with service from many points throughout Spain. You can also catch an Alsa bus from Madrid Airport directly to Oviedo.

Renfe is the train booking service for Spain. ALSAMonbus and Flixbus are the primary long-distance bus services in Spain. And you can use Rome2Rio to help figure out some of the on-the-ground logistics.

Camino Primitivo waymarker, with fence and vegetation.
Waymarker along the Primitivo.

Camino Primitivo Waymarking

The route is extremely well marked with painted yellow arrows, trail bollards with shell symbols, plaques and signposts, the latter usually with stylized scallop shell symbols. You may even see the odd bit of Camino-themed street art. As long as you’re paying attention, it’s hard to get profoundly lost on any of the major Camino routes.

If you want backup, we recommend downloading a Camino app. There are several which have excellent maps, which you can download for offline use.

Terrain on the Primitivo

The route itself is set at the western edge of the Cordillera Cantábrica (Cantabrian Mountains) and sections of it are characterized by mountainous terrain with ascents and descents of 6-8%. This makes it one of the more difficult Caminos, especially for the 3-4 day section between Tineo and Grandas de Salime.

The trail is a mix of dirt trails, forest paths, farm roads and occasional stints on paved roads.

Primitivo Lugo morning light
Morning light in Lugo. Photo courtesy of Carol Guttery.

When to do the Primitivo

Like Galicia, the Asturias region is quite a bit cooler, more overcast and more prone to rain than central or southern Spain. It’s certainly sunny and warm in July and August, but the region has very moderate temperatures in the shoulder seasons of May/June and September/October.

Since this isn’t the most heavily traveled Camino, any time between late spring and early fall would be pleasant. The winter season is tricky as there is more rain, with fewer open albergues.

Accommodations & Services

The Primitivo has a well-developed infrastructure with a good selection of pilgrim albergues, hostales, and small hotels. The trail split at Borres can be a choke point for beds so consider booking ahead there. The Primitivo’s towns and services are somewhat more spaced out than the Francés, but they do occur regularly. That said, the 25 km stretch between Borres and Berducedo on the Hospitales route has no services whatsoever. Come prepared!

Our Camino albergue and lodging guide will give you information on what types of lodgings are available, general pricing and advice on how to book.

More Camino Resources

Get your pilgrim credential from us in advance of your Camino.

Be sure to check out our FAQs on planning your Camino and what to expect while on the trail. Or explore other Camino routes.

If you have more questions, be sure to join a local American Pilgrims chapter or join us in the Facebook group.


Rev 11/5/2025